saucy, sexy, fennel-y spaghetti and meatballs

saucy, sexy, fennel-y spaghetti and meatballs

saucy, sexy, fennel-y spaghetti and meatballs

Eden Grinshpan

Servings

4

Prep Time

20 minutes

Cook Time

40 minutes

saucy, sexy, fennel-y spaghetti and meatballs is the classic red sauce dinner with a warm, anise-y twist: crushed fennel seed in the meatballs, more in the sauce, and a whole fresh fennel bulb cooked down with shallots until it melts into hand-crushed san marzano tomatoes. the meatballs bake in the oven (no splattery frying), then finish simmering in the sauce. 12 meatballs, one big bowl, two forks.


I'm just going to say it: I am absolutely obsessed with fennel. the bulb, the seeds, the fronds, all of it. so when I sat down to make my take on the classic, there was never a world where it wasn't getting the full fennel treatment.


the seeds bring this gentle anise flavor and warmth that makes ground beef taste deeper, so they go into the meatballs AND the sauce. then the fresh fennel gets finely chopped and cooked low and slow until she gives up all her crunch and melts right into the tomatoes. you won't really spot her in the finished sauce. you'll just keep twirling.

this is a stay-in kind of dinner. hearty, cozy, made for sharing with someone you love. my husband goes crazy for meatballs, so this one is a guaranteed win in our house. we skip the plates entirely: one bowl in the middle of the table, two forks, call it a night.

why this fennel-y spaghetti and meatballs works

the panko takes a milk bath first. before the meatball mix even comes together, the panko sits in the milk until it's fully absorbed. that soggy little mixture (chefs call it a panade, which is a very fancy word for wet breadcrumbs) is what keeps the meatballs tender and juicy instead of dense and bouncy. it's ready when there's no milk pooling at the bottom of the bowl.

crushed seeds, not whole. crushing the fennel seed in a mortar and pestle cracks it open so all that warm, sweet flavor actually gets out and spreads through the meat. whole seeds tend to just sit there as random crunchy surprises. in the sauce, the seeds hit the hot oil with the garlic and tomato paste for a couple of minutes over medium heat, and that's when they really wake up.

the oven does the browning. 400 degrees F, 10 minutes, flip, 5 more. you get color on both sides without standing over a pan of spitting oil, and the meatballs keep their round shape because nobody is nudging them around a skillet. then they go into the sauce to soak up all that flavor.

the fennel gets a full 10 minutes. medium-low heat, a good amount of salt and pepper, and patience. that's what turns raw, crunchy, very licorice-y fennel into something soft, sweet and lightly golden. rush it on high heat and you get scorched edges with a crunchy middle.

fill the can with water. once the tomatoes are in, fill the empty can to the top with water and pour that in too. it grabs every last bit of tomato clinging to the can and gives the sauce enough liquid to simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, which is where it gets thick, rich and seriously concentrated.

the spaghetti finishes in the sauce. it comes out of the water right before al dente and goes straight into the pot, so the noodles drink up the sauce instead of just wearing it.

the fennel situation (and the other ingredients that matter)

fresh fennel. one medium bulb, finely chopped. raw, she's crunchy and loud. cooked, she's sweet, mellow and basically melts. a lot of licorice skeptics come around on cooked fennel, so if that's you, give her a shot. and save those feathery fronds. they taste like a soft, fresh hint of anise and they're the bit of green that makes the bowl look finished.

fennel seed. two doses: a heaping teaspoon in the meatballs and 1 1/2 teaspoons in the sauce, crushed both times. this is the flavor that ties the whole thing together.

san marzano tomatoes. one 28-ounce can of whole tomatoes, crushed by hand. it's messy in the best way, and you get a rustic, chunky sauce instead of a smooth one. they're known for being sweet and not too acidic, which is exactly what you want in a sauce built around something as gentle as fennel. the tablespoon of sugar rounds out any sharpness that's left.

shallots, three total. one in the meatballs, two in the sauce. they're softer and sweeter than onions and practically dissolve when they cook down with the fennel.

parm and good olive oil to finish. freshly grated parm, a drizzle of the olive oil you actually like the taste of, and the fennel fronds. that's the crown.

how to make saucy, sexy, fennel-y spaghetti and meatballs, step by step

  1. soak the panko: preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. in a small bowl, combine the panko and the milk and set it to the side while you make the rest of the meatball mixture. it needs time to absorb all the milk.

  2. combine the ground beef, egg, crushed fennel seed, grated garlic, finely chopped shallot, kosher salt and cracked black pepper in a large bowl. once the panko has soaked up all the milk, add it in and mix with your hand until everything is combined.

  3. roll the mixture into golf ball-sized balls. you'll get 12. place them on a parchment-lined baking tray and drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil over the top so they get nice and golden in the oven.

  4. bake the meatballs for 10 minutes, then flip each one over to get color on the other side. give them 5 more minutes in the oven, then take the tray out and set the meatballs aside for the sauce.

  5. sauté the fennel and shallots: heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium-sized pot. add the chopped fennel and shallots and season well with kosher salt and black pepper. cook on medium-low for 10 minutes, until the fennel cooks down and turns lightly golden.

  6. bloom the flavor: add the grated garlic, crushed fennel seed and tomato paste. turn the heat to medium and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring, to release all that flavor. your kitchen is about to smell incredible.

  7. simmer the sauce: crush the whole san marzano tomatoes by hand right into the pot, then fill the empty can to the top with water and pour that in too. bring it to a boil, turn it down to a simmer and let it cook until reduced and thickened, around 20 to 30 minutes.

  8. season and add the meatballs: stir in the sugar and fresh basil, then taste and adjust the seasoning. add the meatballs, cover the pot and let everything simmer together while your pasta water comes to a boil.

  9. cook the spaghetti: season the boiling water generously with kosher salt and add the pasta. right before it hits al dente, take the meatballs out of the sauce and add the spaghetti to the pot. if the sauce looks too thick, loosen it with a splash of pasta water.

  10. toss and serve: toss the spaghetti in the sauce until every strand is coated, then pile it into a large shared bowl. top with the meatballs, more sauce, freshly grated parm and the fennel fronds. finish with a drizzle of good olive oil and grab two forks.

the two-fork rule

this one is meant to be eaten straight from the bowl. no individual plates, no portioning, no pretending you're not going back for another meatball. set the big bowl in the middle of the table, hand out forks and dig in together. a big crunchy salad on the side is never a bad idea, and some bread for dragging through whatever sauce is left at the bottom of the bowl is basically mandatory.

make ahead and leftovers

the sauce is happy to be made a day or two ahead. let it cool, keep it covered in the fridge with the meatballs right in it, then warm it up gently on the stove while your pasta water boils. if it has thickened up overnight, a splash of water brings it back.

leftover spaghetti and meatballs will keep in a covered container in the fridge for a few days. reheat in a pan with a little water so the noodles loosen up instead of drying out. and the sauce with meatballs freezes well, so a double batch is never a bad plan.

if something goes sideways

my meatballs are falling apart. the panko probably didn't have enough time to soak up all the milk, so the mixture stayed too wet. let it sit until there's no liquid left before it goes in. also, flip them gently. they firm up as they cook.

my sauce tastes a little sharp. that's what the teaspoon of sugar is for. once it's stirred in, give the sauce a few more minutes to simmer, then taste again. a pinch more salt can also round things out more than you'd expect.

the fennel is still crunchy. the heat was likely too high, so the outside browned before the inside softened. turn it down and give it a few more minutes before the garlic goes in. you want it soft enough to squish with a spoon.

the pasta soaked up all the sauce. totally normal, that's the whole point of finishing it in the pot. loosen things up with pasta water, a little at a time, until it's glossy and saucy again.

faq

what does fennel taste like once it's cooked?

much softer than you'd think. raw fennel is crisp with a pretty strong licorice-y flavor, but after 10 minutes on medium-low with shallots, it turns sweet, mellow and almost buttery. in this sauce, it doesn't scream fennel at all. it just gives the tomatoes a gentle warmth and depth that makes people ask what's in it.

why bake the meatballs instead of frying them?

less mess, less babysitting and no oil splatter all over your stovetop. the oven gives them golden color on both sides with one flip, they hold their shape better, and you get to walk away for a few minutes. they finish in the sauce anyway, where they soak up all that tomato and fennel flavor.

why is there sugar in the sauce?

tomatoes can be a little acidic, even good san marzanos, and a teaspoon of sugar balances that out so the sauce tastes round and rich instead of sharp. it goes in after the sauce has reduced, right alongside the basil, so you can taste and adjust the seasoning at the same time.

what if I can't find san marzano tomatoes?

use the best canned tomatoes you can get your hands on. san marzanos are sweet and low in acidity, which is why I love them here, but this sauce will still be delish without them. just taste it once the sugar goes in and adjust from there, since other tomatoes can be a bit sharper.

can I make the meatballs bigger or smaller?

you can, just keep an eye on the oven time. this recipe is built around golf ball-sized meatballs, which gives you 12, and they get 10 minutes, a flip and 5 more minutes at 400 degrees F. smaller meatballs will color faster, and bigger ones will need a little longer before they head into the sauce.

more meatballs, please

if meatballs are a love language in your house too, my moroccan meatball shakshuka, my herbed rice meatballs with lemon tomato sauce, and my weeknight meatballs and beans are all waiting for you on the site.

and be honest in the comments: are you a fennel person, or still on the fence? I have a feeling this bowl might change your mind.

xo,

e

Ingredients

    for the meatballs

    • 1 pound ground beef
    • 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
    • 1/4 cup whole milk
    • 1 heaping teaspoon fennel seed, crushed in a mortar and pestle
    • 2 cloves garlic, finely grated
    • 1 shallot, finely chopped
    • 1 egg
    • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
    • cracked black pepper to taste
    • 1 tablespoon olive oil

    for the sauce

    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for plating
    • 1 medium fennel bulb, finely chopped, fronds reserved for plating
    • 2 shallots, finely chopped
    • 2 cloves garlic, grated
    • 1 1/2 teaspoons fennel seed, crushed in a mortar and pestle
    • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
    • 1 (28-ounce) can whole san marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand
    • 1 teaspoon sugar
    • 1 handful fresh basil
    • kosher salt and black pepper

    to serve

    • 1 (500-gram) package spaghetti
    • kosher salt, for the pasta water
    • parmesan, to finish

    Directions

    1. preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

    2. in a small bowl, combine the panko and milk and set aside to absorb.

    3. in a large bowl, place the ground beef, egg, crushed fennel seed, grated garlic, shallot, kosher salt and black pepper.

    4. once the milk has fully absorbed into the panko, add it to the beef and mix with your hand until combined.

    5. roll into 12 golf ball-sized balls. place on a parchment-lined baking tray and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

    6. bake for 10 minutes, flip, then bake 5 more minutes. remove from the oven.

    7. in a medium-sized pot, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. add the fennel and shallots, season well with salt and pepper, and sauté on medium-low for 10 minutes until the fennel cooks down and is lightly golden.

    8. add the garlic, crushed fennel seed and tomato paste. cook over medium heat for a couple of minutes.

    9. crush the san marzano tomatoes by hand and add them to the pot. fill the can with around 1 cup of water, swirl it around, and add to the pot. bring to a boil, then simmer until reduced and thickened, 20 to 30 minutes.

    10. add the sugar and basil, mix and check for seasoning. add the meatballs, cover and simmer while the pasta water comes to a boil.

    11. season the pasta water generously with kosher salt and add the pasta. right before al dente, remove the meatballs from the sauce and add the pasta to the sauce. loosen with pasta water if needed.

    12. toss the pasta in the sauce and place in a large shared bowl. top with the meatballs, sauce, freshly grated parm and fennel fronds. finish with a drizzle of good olive oil and serve straight from the bowl with two forks.